Ski en Vogue: Fashion takes to the slopes
Reading time: 2 mins
From Art Deco illustration to on location photoshoots, discover how Ski fashion and the covers of British Vogue developed from the 1920s through to the 1960s.
Pierre Mourgue
During the 1920s, French illustrator Pierre Mourgue (1890-1969) was a regular contributor to the fashion magazine La Gazette du Bon Ton. It was during this decade that the American Mass Media company Condé Nast acquired the French publication and distributed it across the United States under the title, Gazette du Bon Genre. Following the success of the magazine, and particularly its illustrated covers, Condé Montrose Nast soon had Pierre Mourgue alongside his contemporaries Georges Lepape and Pierre Brissaud illustrating for his leading fashion magazine, Vogue.
Art Deco infused Mourgue’s illustrations, including the stunning lettering. Working in ink and gouache, Mourague’s December 1927 cover’s palette of blues and reds lend themselves to the snowy climate. Subtle snow-covered trees pattern the background of the scene, outlining the mountain range. While in the foreground, a blue-toned beauty holds a casual and controlled stance, her exaggerated drop waist iconic for this era.
Horst P. Horst
Born in Germany in 1906, Horst P. Horst first studied design and carpentry under the tuition of Walter Gropius, Founder of the Bauhaus school, before moving to Paris in 1930. Horst was apprenticing under the renowned architect Le Corbusier when he became acquainted with Chief Photographer at French Vogue, George Hoyningen-Heune. Captivated by the photographic process, Horst found a mentor in Hoyningen-Huene, and showing a skilful eye and masterful understanding of technique, by December 1931, Horst’s first photograph was published in the leading fashion magazine.
Throughout his 70 year career, Horst was known for his masterful use of lighting, creating elongated shadows, elegant composition and atmospheric illusion. The 1930s ushered in a huge technical advancement in colour photography, with Horst creating some of the most striking and vibrant imagery of the time. Adapting the traditions of portrait painting to the photograph, Horst would take several days preparing the background and lighting for a shoot. Without the use of filters, Horst created sets with impactful colour backdrops, setting off the model and her clothing.
Just like Pierre Mourgue in his illustration, Horst has used a rich combination of blue and red for his shoot. A luxurious two-toned blue painted backdrop sets off the red of the headscarf and matching mittens in the foreground that casually clutch at the skis and poles.
Eugene Vernier
French photographer Eugene Vernier (1920-2011) worked for British Vogue from 1954 to 1967. He brought with him a journalistic style, his work celebrated for its use of props, backdrops and locations. He had an eye for intriguing and careful compositions that worked to enhance the essence of his subject. He sought to capture models when they were relaxed, enjoying the clothing, and confident that their photographer would show both only at their best.
Captured in 1966, this November cover photograph is striking in its composition. The cross of the ski’s draw the eye toward the model who stands tall in her impactful pose, showcasing the minimalist space-age inspired ski-wear.
British Vogue © The Condé Nast Publications Ltd.
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